Wednesday, 2 July 2014

Low Low Reverse F.A.

I only had a couple of hours this morning, and no one else free to climb locally, so hit Woodhouse before it got too hot.  I went to Cave Buttress to have a look at reversing the Low Low Traverse and taking out any of the higher holds that are reasonable.  It makes it more eliminate, but a better problem.

About to make the tricky drop down
Fingery climbing

Finishing up the V5

Low Low Reverse Eliminate 7b, starts in the crack and traverse right on the big ledge, below dropping down to the lowest holds on the lip.  Follow these right to join the V5 on the far right and finish up that.

Low Low Reverse from Adam Hughes on Vimeo.

Monday, 30 June 2014

Staff Training, Multi Pitching and Sport Climbing

On Thursday I was at Higgar Tor running and supporting some staff training with Pink Adventures.  The aim was to do a site familiarisation and talk through ways to maximise the venue.  It was a great session, with loads of discussion and activity.

Over the weekend I have been in Wales with Bolton Boys School taking students climbing.  On Saturday Aston, Ethan and I climbed 3 multi pitch routes on Little Tryfan in the morning, before heading to the Milestone Buttress and climbing Super Direct HVS in the afternoon.  The lads did extremely well, and really took on board all the learning points.  Steve had Alex and Andy and climbed a few routes in the morning on Little Tryfan, before Direct Route VD in the afternoon.  We rounded off the day with some bouldering on the RAC boulders in the evening.

Chilling on the first belay

Confident with no hands

Aston enjoying a tricky Severe pitch

Sunday we headed back North to do some Sports route along the A55.  Castle Inn Quarry in the morning, where some of the guys led up to 4+ and toproped 6a.  In the afternoon we moved to Penmaen Head.  Here some led up to 5+ and pushed themselves to try a 6b+ on a toprope.  I managed to sneak in a 7a and 7a+ onsights to top off a great weekend.

Thursday, 19 June 2014

SPA Training and Green Death

The last couple of weeks have seen the usual route setting work and squeezing in some climbing to tick over.  This year continues to be a battle to find the time for days out for myself, so I'm doing my best to stay fit-ish.

Over the weekend I was running an SPA Training in the Peak for Mckinlay training.  A well attended course meant a good mix of candidates.  As always, the more the better for sharing ideas.  Tricky conditions on Saturday, with heat and rain for personal climbing.  However, everyone climbed well, some above the standard.  A good group day at Millstone and Lawrancefield rounded off a good weekend.

I managed a quick send Of Green Death E5 6b*** early Sunday morning.  A good brush, then solo, with an unfortunate damp top out when some drizzle started as I was in the top crux.  A trick start via the 6b version makes for a better route all round.

Today after climbing partners have not been able to make it to Kilnsey, I opted for a morning session at Woodhouse.  A stiff workout, with a handful of 7a+'s and 4 7b+'s made it a worthwhile morning.

Sunday, 1 June 2014

CWA Assessment

After a week stuck in at home not so well, it was back to The Leeds Wall yesterday for a CWA Assessment.  The 4 candidates did really well.  A mix of abilities in terms of their personal climbing, meant some had a harder time than others.  All gave good performances when it came to the other aspects of the award.

Today I met with a posy from ROKT at Heptonstall for a few routes this afternoon.  There was approx. 20 folk there, which has to be the busiest I've ever seen it.  Despite the warm temps, folks were getting stuck in to a range of routes.  I soloed a few VS's to warm up, then led Brown Sugar E2 5c** with Chris.  Mark was putting in a good effort trying to lead Hard Line E5 6b**, but fell short of the top.  I took advantage of his very high gear to nip up it, and found it very easy to my surprise.  Even after being a ill all week, I seem to have recovered ok.  Lets hope I can start finding some time to get out and do a bit more.

Sunday, 25 May 2014

CWA Training

Over the weekend I ran a CWA Training course for McKinley Mountaineering.  It was a full course, with a great mix of experience through the candidates, which really made it.  The personal climbing day was done in the varied venue of ROKT.  A great venue for this day of the award.  The second day looking at all the group aspects and the abseil module was done at The Leeds Wall.  Another good venue for this award, and contrasting to the previous days.

Wednesday, 21 May 2014

Work, Work

After a day inside route setting yesterday, it was nice to be out today.  I was working with Steve at Heptonstall doing a multi pitch training day in preparation for his schools trip to Wales next month.  We spent the day looking at belays and stance management, as we broke up the routes into 2 or 3 pitches.  This worked really well, and gave a good opportunity to talk about avoiding common stance problems with 3 people.  Steve did well on the routes he led and was well organised.  A bit more practise before the trip and things will be cruisy.
Steve on Sunstroke Slab

We nipped over to Mytholm Steep Quarry to climb the rarely dry and climbed Revolution HVS 5b**.  It was a bit dirty, but gave some great climbing.

Monday, 19 May 2014

SPA Refresher, then SPA Assessment

On Friday I was at Stanage doing an SPA Refresher.  It was a long and productive day as we went through the whole syllabus, but the sunshine made it a good day to be out.

I went back out in the evening with friends for a bit of a boulder, and ticked a few classics in the process.
A great evening at Stanage

Over the weekend I ran an SPA Assessment.  The weather made it a nice, but tiring affair, but the candidates did a great job.  Burbage North was the venue on Saturday for the personal climbing section, before heading to the Foundry to cover the wall bits.

Above & Below: Evangelos enjoying his assessment

James & Vicky stuck into 20ft Crack
I nipped out to Stanage again in the evening and climbed some classic routes with Penny.  She cruised the VS's and HVS's we did on this, her first time outside for a while.

Sunday was the group day, and Lawrancefield and Millstone where the venues.  It was a tough day, but everyone put a lot of effort in.  There was success for most, but one unfortunately needs to return for this day.  Congratulations to everyone that passed, a good effort by all.