New Route In Dingy Lancs Quarry, and Some Pits Cranking!

Yesterday I went to Cross Stones Quarry to have a look at an arete that needed straightening out.  I would have to say this is a poor quarry, and if I had known what it as like before getting there, I wouldn't have bothered.  That said, The couple of routes I did were not terrible.  I on sighted Broken Lance E1 5b**, the abseiled at checked the upper arete of this that had been missed out originally.  It looked pretty straight forwards, so I soloed that to give Broken Lance Direct E3 5b*.  As I was here I on sighted Bean Stalk E1 5b**, which had some good climbing on it.

Today after a change in plans, I met Elliot at Running Hill Pits.  I had a list of 3 routes to tick off.  So was pretty happy that it was cool in the shade.  We soloed around to warm up, the most noticeable on sight was Pipe Inspector E3 5c, which we both climbed.  We both then gave our chosen routes a brush.  Mine Adrenaline Run E6 6a* may not have been climbed since the late 90's, and was very dirty.  Elliot's Sagittarius Flake E4/5 6b*** was not too bad.

Mid Crux

Almost there

Done!

I pre placed a couple of wires high up.  These would have been ok to place on lead, But it seemed easier than cleaning for too long.  I was psyched to then flash the route, with one scare as my heel popped off the arete as I caught the hold of the arete with my hand.  Elliot had tried SF on a toprope a while ago and got shut down.  He made short work of it today though.

Elliot pulling hard

Elliot then had a go on Adrenaline Run, but could not do the start of the hard climbing.  After taking a few falls he sacked it off, and kindly brush Surgical Spirit E6 6b* for me to try and on sight.  This climbs the wall between Yorick's Crack and Adrenaline Run.  I managed to on sight it, JUST!  it was quite fierce to the point it joined Yorick's at 2/3 height.  The last route on my list was Yorick's Crack E6 6c**, but I could not do the crux moves low down.  I managed not to fall off, so the on sight is still a possibility at least.

We the moved into the first quarry, where Elliot tried to on sight Calamity Crack E4 6a***.  He put in a fine effort, but fell off the last move of the crux.  Whilst he recovered I did a quick lead up it, having not climbed it in a while.  It was so nice to climb it again.  Tired arms making it feel a little harder than it is.  Elliot then dispatched the route next go.

Happy and tired, we bailed just as the day was starting to heat up.  A good session again in the pits!

A short vid..

Father's Day Sendage

Rose and I managed to get out to Woodhouse today for a spot of bouldering.  I was keen to get on Ian's Roof font 7c**, as I had put in a session previously.  It had rained unexpectedly this morning, so the hour I spent was hard work, but some good links were made.  I had manged it in sections the last time I tried it, but the crux move had never felt good and I could not climb through it.  Paul had popped over on his way back to the car and gave a few helpful hints about heel hooks, which made a big difference.  We had other things to do, so bailed.

Mid crux, the holds are not as good as the look!

I managed to return this afternoon to take advantage of better conditions.  A few tweaks of heel placements and a different pair of shoes and I quickly did it in 2 overlapping halves.  Fired up by this I gave it a few real good efforts, but dropped it twice, missing the pocket to join Houdini.  After a good rest, I gave it all I had and only just hit the pocket.  Unwilling to give in, I pulled a bit harder than I thought I could and finished the problem.  Super Psyched!! But with a forearm and Bicep strain for my trouble.  Hopefully it will clear up in a couple of days, it doesn't feel to serious.

A Spot of Trad at Kilnsey

Despite the weather today, Elliot, Ben, Huw and I headed to Kilnsey to take shelter.  I was quite keen to do a spot of trad, while the others fancied sport, so a perfect venue for to suit everyones needs.  After climbing The Bulgelette 6b+, which had an unpleasant, wet and dirty finish.  I got a little bit of a flash pump through over gripping, and thought I had blown my day, so took a long break and stretched to manage my error as best I could.  I went to have a look at Claws E5 6a***.  But after spending over half an hour on the steepest part of the pitch with my brush in my mouth, trying hard to clean as I went, I finally had to sit on the gear.  I finished the pitch with many rests and a lot of cleaning, but at least it was now climbable without a full on fight through the ming.  Elliot had been a star belaying, so it was my turn to return the favor.  He was keen to finish off Sticky Wicket 7b, but dropped it at the very top.  I had stripped Claws, but decided to re lead the route despite not feeling at my best.  It went smoothly this time, a lot easier when it's clean and you know where you are going.

A damp Bulgelette

Picking a way up Claws

Through the crux of Claws

Elliot again fell short on Sticky Wicket and decided to bin it till another day. Instead we went and looked at Smooth Torquer 7a+ at the far end of the crag.  On our way we checked in with Ben and Huw.  Huw was walking hard on Slab Culture 7b+ and Ben was getting very close on his redpoint attempts on Subculture 8a.  I took advantage of Ben's draws to give it a bash, not expecting much after being the end of the day.  It was a pleasant surprise to lead into Slab Culture with one fall from the last move of the crux, and still feeling fresh enough to have finished.

Elliot then went for the on sight of Smooth Torquer 7a+, but seemed to be having one of those days and fell at the bottom.  I then went for it, and realised half way up that I had not taken any draws.  After holding on and catching a few draws that got thrown up, I ran out of steam and just missed the final jug, Gutted!!!!  It went next go though.

We raced of in a rush to get Ben back for work, with everyone feeling they've had a good workout.

There may be a couple of pics, when Ben sends them over.

Trowbarrow Bouldering

Despite being a bit knackered from Fridays antics and Summit Quarry, I took the chance to go to Trowbarrow on Saturday, whilst Granma and Granpop looked after Rose.  It would be a lie if I said the shelterstone is my style, so it was not surprising I really struggled on Pit Problem 7b+.  It took far more goes than it should have, but I am just poor at this style and angle.  I could blame it on being tied, but that would be a cop out too.  In the end it was a slappy and out of control ascent, but an ascent none the less.  I gave up on the low start, one for another day.

Pit Problem not looking that steep!

It is though!!!!

I took shelter and retreated from the steepness to Red Wall.  Here I sent around 25 problems, the highlights were Shallow Grave font 7a+, Dead Man Walking (short version) font 7b and the full traverse that equates to a sport grade of 7b/+.  My skin is now wafer thin and I really really need a few days rest.  Lets hope I've recovered before the weather turns.

Crimping hard on Shallow Grave

Son of Sam F.A.

A change of plans this morning meant I had a few hours free.  Nik had messaged me this morning to say he had added a couple more things up at Summit, so I thought I would make the walk up and check them out.  Fast and light was the aim today after the mega huck with pads last time.  30m of rope and a small pad meant I was kitted out for quick headpoints, rather than flashes.  This worked quite well, as the routes move around a bit.

First up was the last of the original links I had not done, Line in the Sand E6 6c*.  This has some really tricky, sequencey climbing that take you from the start of Jaggernath, up and right to join Pylon Direct at the flake.  You then finish up that.  This was pretty hard to unlock, as my foot placement were key.  I would have lost a lot of time and energy going ground up on this one.  Next was one of Nik's newest links, The Last Link E7 6c*.  This simply extends Line in the Sand by reversing into the ramp of Pylon Direct and finishing up Responsible Parenting.  It is probably only of interest to locals, but a good sustained route none the less, that takes in some of the best climbing the face has to offer.

As Nik's message this morning suggested he was all finished up there, I turned my attention to a direct finish to Sam I Am.  It seemed like the logical line, as it climbs directly between Jaggernath and Pylon Direct, only pinching 1 hold from the latter at the top.  I had thought this would be totally desperate, and was just intending to have a play.  But was pretty psyched to link it all.  The crux for me was the second hard press move to the small crimp on Pylon Direct, but the pop/dyno to the break was just scary.  I did take a few falls  setting up for the crux press, but thankfully whilst I was in a straight up/down position. Falling whilst pressing could put you landing on your back.  Despite sore skin and sore knees, I gave it an all out do or die effort, and was rewarded with the send, Psyched!!!

The only 2 routes up there left require the mono start of RP, so will either never get done by me, or take a dedicated effort.  Hopefully a few of us will be getting back up there soon when it cools a little to get some videos.

Summit Quarry Bonanza

Summit Qyarry has had a bit of attention lately from keen local Nik Jennings.  He adding Responsible Parenting E7 6c* in March, with an outstanding on sight FA.  He has been busy since then adding a variety of tricky links into other routes.  I have been trying to get up there for a while  But I'm glad it has taken so long, as there are more things to do now.

The cloud had kept the sun off the crag for a good portion of the day I'm guessing, but was full bore when I got there late this afternoon.  Despite that, things felt ok.  I started off on sight soloing Jaggernath E4 6b*, which follows a crack ish line up a steepish bit of wall.  Gear would be super fiddly until the break near the top, so it makes for a sensible solo.  All the holds are quite big, with biggish moves off them, which makes for a nice route.  I then moved onto the easier of Nik's new links, Sam I Am E5 6c*.  This has a pretty nippy  bouldery start, which links into Jaggernath just below the break.  I blew the flash in the crux when I messed up my foot sequence.  Realising mid move and thought I could just pull harder, but that just meant greasing off and hit the pad pretty hard.  With my feet right it went next go, but was no push over.  The crux of this route is at bouldering height, so does not feel too out there.

After a quick chill I went for another established ish route, Pylon Direct (aka. Jim's Route) E6 6c*.  I again took a slip off a slightly greasy slopper low down.  So quickly brushed the route and dispatched it second go, gutted to blew the flash, but happy to do it without top roping it.  I then had a look at Responsible Parenting and got totally shut down.  My fingers are no where near strong enough for the series of hard steep mono pull required for this.  Full respect to Nik for this one.  The finish had no chalk on it, so I abseiled and had a look.  A quick chalking, brushing and practice of the moves, which are still pretty steely, and I was ready for another link up, Pylon Parenting E6 6c*.  Despite Nik suggesting this was a pointless filler, I thought it was awesome.  It takes in the majority of good climbing from one route and adds an excellent finish which is totally different in style.

I forgot my camera today, but will need to return to do the final filler in that I was too knackered to do today.

Edelrid Summer Kit Drop

It is always nice when you get new shiny kit.  I am more than happy to get my Edelrid kit drop as the summer is getting into full flow.  There are updated replacement for my Merlin 8.0mm half ropes, Creed harness and Typhoon velcro shoes.  As well as some new clothing that is a little less green than I normally go for.  There are however some of the newer products in this drop worth mentioning.

First up is the Atmosphere harness.  This is a light weight harness that uses Edelrids 3D Vent Technology.  It does not have a traditional padded waist belt or even a laminated one.  Instead it uses a thin webbing over an extremely light vented form.  Put this together with the 3 dimensional construction, and you have a super light and comfortable performance harness.  This is the slimmer version, and 2 others exist which are not as stripped back, the Cyrus and Orion which is fully adjustable.

Next up is the Typhoon Lace which is also new for 2013.  These are actually my second pair as I did the samples testing last year.  I thought the laces would not really make much difference, but was wrong.  They add that little bit extra to the adjustability when you what to get them super tight all the way down to your toes.  Something a slipper or velcro shoe just can't quite do.  Like the Typhoon Velro, this has been a great all round shoe for me.  Whether on steep routes, edgy wall or techy gritstone slabs.

A big addition to my rack this year is the Aramid Cord Sling 6mm.  With the discussions around regarding dyneema and nylon slings.  Along with the testing and video from DMM, these will be a great addition for both work and play.  They work great as normal slings, but ever better when knotting them up or when extending belay plates abseilling etc.  Light weight too.

The final new addition for me is the new for 2013 Nineteen G quickdraw set.  With each carabiner weighing 19.5g, the first to break the 20g barrier, enough said.  The entire quickdraw weighs a mere 45g, Awesome.

You can find more info on these product on the Edelrid website, just click on the Edelrid logo on the right.