Monday, 2 November 2015

New Routes

Since being back I have managed a quick hit a Woodhouse, where I added yet another 7c link which is probably only of interest to me and a small group of locals.

Woodhouse action

Today I went back to Reddyshore Scout to have a look at the other new lines that had been pointed out to me. Joined by Elliot, we set about cleaning up one each. I brushed and sussed out my line, before then leading it. Elliot couldn't pull on the starting holds, so saved his energy for the other route. I graded the route for the on sight, which would have a serious feel to it, especially at the start. Because of this I gave it E5 6a* Tattersall's Lament Direct.

Through the hard climbing on Tattersall's 

Doing the crux

We then got stuck into Elliot's line. He showed me what he was thinking, then I had a bash on a toprope. It had a weird crux, but I managed to work out a way at the second time of asking. Elliot then tried for the lead, but fell a couple of times on the crux. I went next and got it first go on the lead. A tricky little number, with some good climbing in it. I've called it Bitter Sweet E5 6b*, again grading for the on sight. Unfortunately Elliot didn't get the send, but it would go super quick if he returns. A good day, with a few things still to go I'm told.

Mid crux on Bitter Sweet 

Friday, 23 October 2015

Bolton Boy's School Spanish Climbing Trip

It was that time again, the Bolton Boy's School Spain trip. We had a psyched bunch of lads who all had some big goals, so the pressure was on to provide good venues and good coaching. We started off at Sierra de toix in the afternoon on the day of arrival. The aim was to get moving well on easy routes, but that said, half the team dispatched a nippy 6b. Day 2 took us to Salem. A venue that definitely did not offer holiday ticks, but short routes high in the grade. Despite this the lads did extremely well. Barney redpointed his first 6a+, Adam flashed a steely 6b, then a bouldery 6c and Anosh ticked off a good selection of routes. I managed to bag a few routes too, the best was a 7a+ that was high in the grade. Especially when putting the draws in. Day 3 was a hot one at Alcalali. This was a great crag, with a real mixture of routes. Once they got warmed up, they rattled through a load of routes. Nearly everyone flashed a 3 star 6a+, and half a good 6b. Ryan is the newest of the climbers, but managed a real selection of 5 and 5+'s. I flashed a great 3 star 6c+ before dropping the flash of a 7b+. It went second go at least. Day 4 we headed into the mountains to Forada to escape the poor local weather. This was an amazing crag with a big selection and variety of routes. Despite being tired, everyone did extremely well. Ryan climbed his first 6a, Anosh was on fire and ended a long day flashing 6b. I flashed a top 50 7a and got a really hard 7b second go. Defo a venue I want to go back to. After a rest day due to bad weather, Day 6 took us to Bellus. I think this is an outstanding crag, and we went to a different sector to last year. Again everyone excelled. Ryan climbed another 6a and a 6a+, but was showing real signs of tiredness now. Aston again climbed really well, flashing routes up to 6b+. Adam did his usual and cruised pretty much anything in the 6b/+ range. I climbed yet aother bouldery 7b second go. We escaped the sun and moved around to the north side later on. the aim was to find a project for the final and day. Here Adam made a super quick redpoint of a steep and sustained 3 star 6c. Day 7 was back to Bellus to send projects. We all warmed up then got stuck into it. Ryan Flashed a super 3 star 5/+, as did a very tired Barney. Anosh quick despatched the 3 star 6b, he'd bolt to bolted the previous day. Aston on sighted the hard top 50 6a/+ and Adam made another super quick redpoint, this time of the tricky 3 star 6c+. I rounded my week off climbing Warlock 7c+. A great trip for everyone.

Tuesday, 13 October 2015

Busy Times, NGB's and F.A.

It has been pretty busy lately, as the year seems to have been. The usual route setting has been interspersed with some white water kayak work for Bolton School. This has been a nice change in a weird way. This weekend I have been back on the NGB train, with a CWA Training Course. The candidate were very strong, which made for a great course. We had more time to focus on the coaching aspects of the award as there personal experience was good. All seemed to go away from the weekend full of ideas and understanding. Yesterday I ran an SPA refresher day for Martin. We managed to shoehorn in a massive amount in the time we had, and he goes away with a lot to work on to get ready for assessment. The aim of the day was simplifying what he had been shown previously, and giving him a methodical approach. Today I got a morning to myself to go climbing. I had been tipped off about some new lines locally and one that still had a point of aid. After trying to get a partner and failing, I decided to just go and check it out on my own. The plan was to work it out and then try and squeeze in a quick hit to lead it this week. After abbing the line and cleaning a few holds here and there looking at how it might go, I flashed it whilst belaying myself. Happy with this I set about checking the gear out. After climbing it clean 6 times in a row, whilst faffing with gear and belaying myself. My patience failed and possibly ego got involved, and I decided to solo the route. All went well, thankfully and War Dance at Reddyshore Scout received it's first free ascent at E5 6b**. A cool route with some good climbing. I have other bits of work this week before heading to Spain to work at the end of the week. Hopefully the sun will help me shake the throat virus that still clinging on.

Tuesday, 22 September 2015

Catch Up and Houdini Direct

Is has been pretty busy since I last posted.  The usual route setting and NGB work continues, as well as the Bolton School days starting again.

Bolton School have had a few good days out.  A good trip up to Eskdale Gorge in pretty high levels made a great day for the lads.  We have had a few days out sport climbing too, in preparation for our trip to Spain in October.  The lads have started well, ticking a range of routes at different parts of Giggleswick South from 5+-6b.  With a few weeks left. they are all psyched to get the best out of there trip and do a bit of training.

Bolton lads leading well

Over the last 2 years or so I have been struggling with Houdini Direct font 7c+ at Woodhouse.  I have been close so many times, just never being able to find that finish line.  When I went today, I was not expecting much after a session in the wall yesterday.  I warmed up at home on my finger board so I could get straight on it and just work some links.  The first couple of goes felt good, solid sections climbed.  Then I decided to see how I faired, and started to panic a bit as I held the lip and got my heel on. I managed to finish the next crux section up the arĂȘte, Psyched!!!!!!  Maybe it was the lack of expectation that help today, or simply one of those lucky days.  Either way, it's definitely not one than I'll be running laps on like I do on the Clingen Face.

Let hope this is the start of some good climbing after a pretty rubbish year really.

Houdini Direct from Adam Hughes on Vimeo.

Wednesday, 5 August 2015

Busy Busy

The theme of the year seems to be continuing.  Busy with everything and not really anytime to climb for myself.

The last few weeks have been taken over with SPA Assessments and Trainings in the Peak. A CWA Aessessment and route setting.  Throw in there childcare and moving house and you have a severe take up of time.  That said, I have managed to grab a bit of time locally bouldering to tick over, as well as the odd short session in the wall around work.

Fingers crossed, It will be a better August.

Tuesday, 14 July 2015

Bit of Bouldering

I had a chance on Sunday to grab a couple of hours bouldering at Woodhouse.  Although local,it was nice to do some climbing for myself, as time has been very limited lately.

I surprised myself, with quick repeats of the majority of 7b+'s at the crag.  The steep stuff was definitely a weaker area, but it will hopefully come back quick once work and family commitments ease.

Sunday, 12 July 2015

ML Assessment

This week I was back in the Lake for an ML Assessment.   I was doing the expedition section, which is 3 days with a night navigation. We had a couple of dig days out,  which tested the candidates.  A mixed day and night for one cost them the award, but I'm sure that they will come back strong on their re assessment.  They weather was quite mixed and helped add to the assessment.  Overall, it was a good few days.